steering damper

1. All the spindles should be quite tight, and setting them so the fork just falls under its own weight is one way to do it. But the instructions all say that you should tighten and lock each spindle such that at least one of the FF10 dust excluders can just be turned. Also, being pedantic, note that the spindles don't turn in the bushes, they are locked by the pad-bolts. Rather, the bushes turn in the links over the spindles. The spindle through the eccentrics does not have or need a lock-nut. That one must be done up tight; the shims, once done correctly, will ensure that the lower-link-eyes aren't locked-up. Re-check spindle clearances at 50, 100, 200, then every 500 miles for the first 2000 as things settle down.

2. Yes, the upper disc FF24 is often tight. The steering-column slotted spigot is usually peened over a bit to keep FF24 in place. A little gentle filing will allow it to be removed, although it may be held by corrosion too. FF27 usually has a little more clearance so it doesn't get stuck; I suspect a previous owner has got a bit over-enthusiastic with the peening.

3. You are right, all the nut-assemblies at the bottom are locked to the shaft. All that happens when you tighten the knob is that the shaft pulls up tighter against the resisting action of the spring-plate FF26.

4. The single-friction-disc damper is very ineffective and was superceded in '53 by a twin-disc version which was a very big improvement - although not without a few niggling problems. These twin-disc variants are strongly recommended on any Vincent if you don't want to change the stock appearance with a hydraulic damper. On a well-fitting assembly, a remarkable amount of 'feel' and damping can be achieved. Needing a number of new twin-disc assemblies for my own rebuilds, I made a batch from stainless; and carefully designed-out the niggling little glitches. Visually it looks identical to the stock item. For your email address only, I have attached 3 photos and also a part-numbered drawing of the complete assembly. I have also attached the description and instructions I send out with the assemblies I have produced. You will find some useful info and tips in there.

There is one simple but fundamental point you are missing. The rod does not turn when the damper knob is turned. The damper knob at the top turns on its thread pulling the whole assembly upwards and tightening the plates together. Peter Barker